What a welcome to South Georgia- at last, the wildlife mecca, bustled before our eyes today. We explored Elsehul via Zodiacs as swarms of birds, pinnipeds, and even a bit of carnage could be found! Macaroni penguins were arriving at the rocky cliffs to nest and even a chinstrap penguin was spotted. Some of the naturalists noted seeing more light-mantled, grey-headed albatross in the air and nesting here in Elsehul than ever before. Indeed a fantastic sign of restoration to the seabird populations post rat eradication. The weather was so splendid that we were able to cruise, particularly closely, through the Willis Islands. The steep cliffs were teeming with yet more large birds, seemingly millions of small prions, and a humpback whale to boot! In the afternoon we all could hardly pull ourselves away from the bow after the expert navigation of our bridge team brought the ship nearly to the beaches of Salisbury Plain.